Sunday, March 2, 2014

How I Upped My Makeup Game

There are few things I think I need to say first and foremost. I have learned everything I know by trial and error. I am not a professional. Secondly, I feel that makeup should be fun and if it works for you- ROCK IT! We are too hard on each other. What may look like crap to me actually makes that girl feel like a beautiful princess! Lastly, there are higher end products than what I have that probably do a better job. However, I am all about beauty on a budget. I get most of my stuff at Target or at the drugstore.

That before? That's not an uncommon makeup look I used to rock. I really tried not to overdo how I previously did my makeup. That is really how I wore it.

Quick and dirty on what have I changed and what have I learned

  • Skincare, skincare, skincare
  • Primer sets the stage whether for foundation or eyeshadow
  • Eyebrows- Framing for your eyes, learn to do them! 
  • Eyeliner- Now it is always under my lash line on my lower lashes
  • Bronzer- Not just something you put your blush on top of
  • Pink frosty lips do not equal nude lips (I used to think only a light lipstick if you have smokey eyes)
  • Smokey eyes can be done in a variety of colors but black and silver are harsh
  • Eyeshadow primer can make a difference for even the cheapest of shadows
  • Tools matter- maybe even more than the makeup
  • The angle at which I curl my eyelashes matters
Now to get a little more in depth: 

Step 1: Skin. For me that generally includes serum, daytime eye moisturizer, face moisturizer and primer. 

Primer makes a big different in my makeup. I have two different types depending on the look. The pixi primer is more of a luminescent dewy look, and the face perfector is a more of a matte look. (Unfortunately they no longer make that pixi primer. Sad day! I'll be on the lookout for a different option) 

Step 2: Foundation: Since I followed my skin routine including primer I will use regular foundation instead of a BB cream (I use that when I want to combine some steps). Today happens to be Colorstay Foundation by Revlon in 200 (nude). Sometimes I use a makeup sponge, today I used my fingers. 


Step 3: Highlight and Contour (HAC). My highlight and contour leaves a lot of room for improvement. It is a new step for me. (Please don't cringe, its a work in progress!) Lets just called it a modified HAC. I'm not sure I love the super dark with super light HAC routines I've seen. I use a concealer in the lightest shade (usually an ivory) and draw a line up the center of my nose and then fan out onto my forehead, an inverted triangle under my eyes, and a bit on my chin. The inverted triangle under my eyes does a a wonder for my dark circles and for the rosacea redness of my cheeks (which has improved greatly with better skin care). While that sets for a minute I take a bit of bronzer and darken the hollows below my cheek bone, and sometimes I used a bit on my nose to contour, and then under my jaw line.





















Next I use my fabulous favorite tool: my buki brush! This is perfect for blending. I love this brush so much and could not live without anymore! This is more densely packed than an all out full size kabuki brush. Mine is a Bare Escentuals (Minerals) you can check out here for 20 bucks. Or for a cheaper version I would recommend the Coastal Scents brand here for 4.95. I use circular motions to blend in my concealer/bronzer. Depending on how my skin is doing, sometimes I use a stippling motion to blend the concealer out just where the edges are. This brush also works great with Bare Minerals loose foundation to give a heavier/thicker application. After blending I lightly sweep bronzer with in an E motion from around my forehead, hollows of my cheeks, under my jaw. I'm currently using a pixi bronzer I am sampling from Ipsy. 




Step 4: Blush. Nothin' fancy. I have a bare minerals blush brush that I use and apply from the apples of my cheeks (I usually smile a big cheesy smile and hit em right on) then I go outward along my cheekbone toward my ear. When I am feeling a bit fancy I will use a luminizer/brightener I got from Bare Minerals just on the top of my cheekbones near the outer corner of my eyes. 




Perhaps a bit better blending on my bronzer on the left but you get the idea. Before when I used to just use bronzer on my cheekbones followed by blush on my cheekbones it gave me quite the baked potato face. You can also see how the bit of bronzer around my hairline and under my jaw gives my face better dimension. Not just flat face. 

Step 5: Brows. I'll do a full brow tutorial at a later date with better pics. In the meantime here is a tutorial I like here. I use a blonde eyebrow pencil from Avon (I purchased for 1.99 on sale!) and make an outline. I draw the top and the bottom of my eyebrows. I left my natural brow shape be my guide. Next I use a blonde eyebrow powder from Nyx to fill in between my lines using the provided brush. (5.99 at Target) Then I take my lovely buki brush and brush it over the top just to soften the edges. My Nyx kit comes with a spoolie if you prefer to soften the look by brushing the powder with it instead. Then I use the wax to set them in place. I would say pencils tend to look harsh, so if you aren't using an eyebrow powder, consider it. 



















Step 6: Eyeshadow and mascara. I have found that using an eyeshadow primer really helps me. I use a Nyx pearl (shimmery) base, but they also have plain white, nude, and beige and its relatively cheap at 6.99.  You can pick it up at Target or Ulta.

















I won't due a full tutorial on my eyeshadow today, but I've learned a few things.

First thing: Brushes, brushes, brushes. It will make a difference. I have tons of different brands of brushes, but my current favorites are Coastal Scents. Great quality and easy on the wallet. Also, I never use eyeliner under my eye. I use eyeshadow underneath my lower lashes smudged with a dome shadow brush. A small dome shadow brush is your friend. It works great for your crease as well as smudging things out. I started with an Avon one but have upgraded (even though it cost less) to this dome brush from Coastal Scents. You can see the middle of my lid is the palest color darkening at the edges and into my crease. I always use a light (but not silver) color for my brown bone. Shoot for pale skin color. My liner is not a huge thick line, just a nice tight line along the lashes (I used a Sephora liquid liner in brown today). Next so there aren't any dramatic lines I use a blender to blend the color. Again, mine is Coastal Scents. Previously I used a fluffy old school kaboodles brush. The blender works better. Haha. Seriously, tools make a difference so go buy some nice eyeshadow brushes!

Also do not be afraid of color. I used lots of purples and pinks here and it provides just as much of a smokey look as what I used to think black did. Black and silver are harsh. I'm not sure I will ever buy more of them. I've learned that liner doesn't need to be black to be dramatic either. This dark brown works great with the burgundies of my shadow.





















This Chella highlighter does wonders on the brow bone just underneath the brows, sometimes I use a bit on the bridge of my nose. I highlight under my brows after I finish my eyeshadow and that just pat with my finger to blend.




















Crimping my eyelashes with the curler at this angle rather than straight up and down gives a much better effect. I learned this little trick from pinterest and it actually works.
Have I mentioned that tools are important?! The way bristles are packed into the brush changes the amount of makeup they can hold and then put on your face. 

Two of my fave fave fave tools: My buki brush, and my doefoot blender brush. They are my little blending buddies. I can't live without them now. Even when I started using darker colors in my crease I wasn't blending very well. I'm sure I looked like a fool. 


 My beloved dome brushes! As you can see the Avon is a bit tighter and smaller. I like using this to apply eyeshadow below my lower lash line. The Coastal Scents brush is perfect for applying color into the crease of your eye. These have made a huge difference.


















My final step is using a full size kabuki and loose powder. 

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